"Since there is no ammeter to connect the large output wire to, what would be the next best place--the ignition switch itself?
MY RESPONSE
NO I would NOT wire the alternators output to the Ignition Switch as its (and perhaps the wiring to it) likely NOT a very high current rated device.
NO Although sure it will "work" and many rookies or inexperienced farmer Billy Bobs might,,,,,,, I would NOT wire the alternators output (if its say a 50 or 60 or more amp unit) to the old wiring that went to the BAT terminal on an old Voltage Regulator. THE REASON WHY is many (not all) old generators weren't much over 20 to 30 amps max and many (not all) modern 12 volt Alternators may be 50 to 60 or more amps and that could be excess current/heat for what the old wire from BAT on a VR up to an ammeter or elsewhere could be rated for. Again yes it would "work" if spliced to the old wire that connected to the BAT terminal on an old Voltage Regulator BUT TO BE SAFE ID PREFER A BIGGER WIRE UNLESS SAY IT ALREADY HAD A 10 GAUGE THERE ???? I cant say from here and what you posted
YES similar to Professor Jims post I would run an all new wire 10 gauge minimum or even 8 Gauge SUBJECT TO the alternators output from the alternator to the hot battery post or often to the starter solenoid/switches hot input battery side as it has a huge cable up to the battery and use adequate overcurrent and short circuit protection.
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Today's Featured Article - The Nuts and Bolts of Fasteners - Part 2 - by Curtis Von Fange. In our previous article we discussed capscrews, bolts, and nuts along with their relative hardness and thread sizes. In this segment we will finish up on our fasteners and then work with ways to keep them from loosening up in the field. Capscrews, bolts and nuts are not the only means of holding two parts together. When dealing with thinner metals like sheet tin, a long bolt and
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