Free advise for those having trouble bush hogging with an 8N.
A) Know which way your blade spins.
B) Sharpen your blades with a grinder, then finish with a 120 grit belt sander to about 6" in from the end. Plan to do this fairly often, and plan to buy new blades when they get too narrow. I lift my bush hog all the way up with the 3 point, support it with two 2x4s at the tail, and spin the blade so they can be sharpened by bending down and doing it on the spindle. Makes a world of diff, but YMMV.
C) If/when the bush gets pretty heavy, run the tractor half path into the heavy stuff. On most decks, the left side is the leading edge of the rotary and should do the cutting while the retreating side on the right accumulates the detritus.
Sure, having more HP would be faster, deeper, harder, wetter. It can all be done with the 8N, just takes a little longer under heavy load. Live PTO is a moderate hassle, but again - there are ways around it. First lesson is leave the clutch alone! Get the hog spinning in N, push the clutch in, put it in gear, let the clutch out, and don't mess with the clutch anymore. I also take my bucket off the loader, and run the loader all the way up to minimize the load on the front.
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Today's Featured Article - The Nuts and Bolts of Fasteners - Part 2 - by Curtis Von Fange. In our previous article we discussed capscrews, bolts, and nuts along with their relative hardness and thread sizes. In this segment we will finish up on our fasteners and then work with ways to keep them from loosening up in the field. Capscrews, bolts and nuts are not the only means of holding two parts together. When dealing with thinner metals like sheet tin, a long bolt and
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