Brenden is right about fitting a loader. Plan for a couple weekends of solid work, unless it came off the same make and model. I fitted a tube style loader to my 8N, and it was a heck of a job. I burned plenty of steel, grinding, fitting, welding, etc.
That running Ford 3000 for the price was a heck of a deal. I've been looking for months to find a decent 50-60HP tractor with PS that all runs for under $3000. If you find one, and everything does indeed work - buy it quick.
I would suggest focusing less on the make and model, and more on the condition and features. I was on MN craigslist a while back and saw a Allis Chalmers WD with a loader that looked pretty good. No PS, but for the price - even though it's old, he said everything was working and a fairly new clutch. I think the price was $2800. Might need to fit a 3 point, but since it already has a loader, that's a bonus. Also in the midwest might consider a Farmall with one of those Du-al or FarmHand loaders on it.
Vintage tractors aren't so important on the make and model, but how much work is needed to get it running right, and shift, stop, turn, etc.
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Today's Featured Article - Tuning-Up Your Tractor: Secondary Ignition Wires and Distributor - by Curtis Von Fange. In our last episode we spent the entire day checking out the spark plugs. Is that efficency? Actually, it took more time to explain than it really did to do the inspection. At any rate we decided that a compression test was in order so we could verify the internal engine status. That way we wouldn't buy any tune up parts until we were sure that the engine was in reasonable mechanical condition. Our tests showed a fictional compression reading of 85, 80, 82 and 86 psi. That is well within a
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