Thanks. I've had several responses, and the most promising are to swap the condenser, and if not, the cap, even though both are new. Plug gap is 30, point gap is 20 or a hair over. Difficult to get exact.
It seems it's got to be the condenser or the cap. There is no in between, as the timing light shows. With the lights off in the barn and it's running, the timing light is brightly flicking then gone, just as though I shut off the ignition key, engine coasts down, then bang, it comes back. Sometimes, the first bang is the detonation of the raw charge in the exhaust left by the previous miss.
Condensor, then cap. Simplest and cheapest, and on from there.
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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