Posted by docmirror on November 29, 2017 at 11:51:42 from (107.213.165.255):
In Reply to: Rippoff by design??? posted by Eldon (WA) on November 28, 2017 at 17:06:14:
Charging the battery is not blowing the fuse. Running the dump motor with the charge line connected is what's over-current on that fused line.
The internal resistance of the battery will keep the charge current down below 30A. That's why there's a 30A fuse in the line, to protect against shorts from the wire, not because the battery will draw that much from the alternator. The alternator has a voltage regulator that limits the voltage applied to all batteries so that the plates will not warp under very high charge current.
The simple way to do this is to find an automotive relay with a set of normally closed terminals.
PN 73980 or equivalent can be found at your local auto parts store. Insure it has a terminal labelled '87a', which is the normally closed terminal from pin 30, the supply pin.
Wire the charge line from truck to relay pin 30, and the trailer battery + to pin 87a. Wire pin 85 to trailer chassis ground. wire pin 86 to the switch which activates your pump motor, if that pin is the +12V which engages the motor. If the motor is driven by a relay, wire pin 86 to the coil pick at that relay. The objective is for the charge line to remain connected to the battery at all times except when the motor is activated. Use a DMM to check that pin 86 is connected to the +12V for the motor. When the switch is operated, the motor will start, the relay will open, the charge line from the truck will be disconnected from the battery. When you release the motor switch, the relay will close, and charging voltage will be restored.
If the motor is switched by the ground side, you will wire pin 85 to the truck battery(same as pin 30 on the relay), and you will wire pin 86 to the ground activated side of the motor switch, so that when ground is applied to the motor, it is also applied to pin 86, thus activating the relay and opening the charge line circuit.
The hysteresis in the battery will provide sufficient buffering so that the fuse will not blow during the transition state from closed to open.
Oh, and do NOT use a smaller gauge wire as a self-limiting current device. when the cheap plastic insulation melts as the wire gets to ~300F it will short out on something somewhere and may cause serious damage to the truck primary. Wire in a loom, or even loose is not designed to be a fuseable link.
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