Yes--- I tried them, recorded temperatures and they did not burn as hot as my good old hardwood and were a lot more expensive (a little more than pellets per ton)
The reason I tried them is I always heard and thought that coal would produce much more heat than wood and be a lot less work. So, I bought some bags of coal to burn in my old 1920's Glendale kitchen wood/coal/gas stove that has been our primary heat source since we built the house in 1975. After several bags of coal,
recording of temperatures in various areas and being cold, it turns out wood ran much hotter than coal in my stove.
I found on the net that in a stove or furnace designed primarily for coal it does burn hotter, but in an old kitchen stove it doesn't work that way. For coal to burn correctly, draft has to be supplied from underneath and wood doesn't care much where it gets it's air from, it uses it to burn. In an old leaky kitchen stove, any air coming in from the top it simply serves as a damper on coal and cools the fire. We love our old combination stove and so as I mentioned in an earlier post in this thread, stayed with wood until last year when we used only oil because it was cheaper than buying wood. The old Glendale is still in it's place, we cook on it daily and there is 3 or 4 cords of wood in the woodshed in case of power outages or the price of oil goes back up.
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Today's Featured Article - Storing Your Tractor - by Staff. If your tractor is going to be stored for any length of time, a few precautionary measures are helpful in preserving various parts, also in avoiding future difficulty. Store tractor under cover. If impossible to place tractor under cover, be sure to cover air stack and exhaust pipe. Drain radiator and engine block. To avoid gum content collections, drain both fuel tanks and carburetor. Leave radiator and fuel caps slightly loose to protect gaskets. Block tractor up to remove weight from tires and to keep tires from contact with moist floor.
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