I recently did what you are asking about, except my tractor is a 1949 Minneapolis R instead of a Farmall H. I believe the new generation Pertronix has been updated to address the (real) problems that Oregon Tractor Jack referred to. I know these used to be problems with the Pertonix, but not any more. The only thing I changed on my tractor was the points for the Pertonix. I'm still running the stock plug wires and an old 12 volt coil I salvaged form a parts tractor. It works great.
The benefit I noticed immediately when going from points to Pertronix is the tractor starts immediately as soon as the button is pushed. Also, I don't hear the occasional slight miss I used to get with points. At the last pull I entered, out of three classes entered, we got two first place wins. The tractor will lug down and keep on pulling. Stock motor, stock plug wires, and stock 12 volt coil.
On the box that the Pertonix came in, they do recommend spiral wound solid core wires and their "hot" coil for best performance. I have not found them to be necessary.
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Today's Featured Article - A 1937 John Deere Unstuck - by Gary Hickman. Here is my story of how I got the pistons out of a 1937 JD B that the engine had been stuck for about 14 years: About 12 years ago my Dad gave me one of the tractors I ran as I was growing up on our farm in central Nebraska. The engine on this tractor, a 1937 John Deere "B", had been stuck for 2 years before he gave it to me. This last spring (1999) I hauled the tractor to our 2 acre lot in St. Libory Nebraska where it joined my antique machinery collection, at that time a 1929 Caterpillar T
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