Hi It's not always about compression, it's how big the turbo is/well matched to the motor, how much fuel you put in it, how good the new/used motor was to start with, and how hot it gets running. Then the final real important bit how much like you stole it, do you want to drive it, I've seen guys destroy factory fitted turbo engines!!!.
There has been many stock diesel tractors over the years had aftermarket turbo or farmer shop built kits fitted to stock engines that have been fine driven right. Most of them just involved upping the oil pressure a bit for the turbo, and cranking the pump screw to match the fuel to air. The lucky tractors got done on a dyno or the pump went to the shop.
The unlucky ones got the screw turned till it smoked like the 8.15 express pulling hard up hill, and went to work. Many of those engines never had the pistons valves/seats or anything touched. We had a Belarus with an aftermarket kit it was a totally stock motor that went from 90 hp to 110hp with just oil pressure and fuel altered and still had more to give with no problems. we sold that tractor less the turbo kit and dropped the fuel and oil pressure back it went from a 1062 back to an 862 in 3 hours. Regards Robert
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Today's Featured Article - New Life for an Old Allis - by Tyler Woods. My friend Jon, has an old '39 Allis Chalmers B. He thought it a marginal tractor that had long since served its time. She smoked terribly and never had much power but he couldn't afford another so he was limping along with what he had. Jon's Allis has a small front loader and though it doesn't carry much, it serves his needs. It was the hard starting and low power that made him think it was time to replace the old girl. Jon called me to help him discover why his tractor wouldn't start
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