Posted by fredkotewa on September 15, 2017 at 13:17:49 from (71.82.109.45):
I have a 1975 Ford 2000 that is overheating. It stopped for me twice while moderately working it. It did not seize up but just stopped. The heat gage was maxed to red. So far I have changed the V-belt, changed the thermostat to 160* from 168* because that was all they had, pulled the radiator and checked for good flow, checked the upper and lower hoses for a collapsed hose, pulled the water pump and checked for any play or worn impeller, and checked to see that the thermostat was not in backwards. When the tractor is idling @ 1300 rpm's for 15 minutes, the needle on the gage will be maxed out but the temperature on the intake manifold will be no more than 150* at any point, and the thermostat still will not open. This is done using an infrared heat gun. So the last thing I do is pull out the thermostat and run the tractor without it. Ran tractor for over an hour from 1100 rpm's to 1600 rpm's while it is setting still and it ran beautifully with the needle never going over the mid point of the gage but the temp. still not more than 150*. When I first started it, I had the radiator cap off and I really had a good flow of anti-freeze going thru the radiator, so the pump is working very good with no overflow. So my question is, why can't I run this tractor with a thermostat in it because the manual states that it should not be run without a thermostat? Does anyone have any good idea's?
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Today's Featured Article - Case Farm Equipment - by Jeremy Sweeten. My name is Jeremy Sweeten and I am currently a junior at Purdue University. I am takin a dual major in Agriculture Systems Management and Agronomy. I am from North Central Indiana, Miami County to be exact. My dad teaches for Marion Community School Systems an outdoor lab called Asherwood. We live there to manage the place. They just happen to have a Case 311 with a Triple Range transmission. I grew up mowing, pushing snow, and hauling maple sap with it. In 1986 my parents bought an old,
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