if your nut is not adjusting anything it would mean that you have adjusted the needle assy all the way down into the fuel bowel so that its flush with the top of the boss on the bowl...if you take the top screw out and remove the nut you will see what I mean...you should be able to get a hold of the 2 flat spots on the needle assy with needle nose pliers and screw it back out in order to put the adjusting nut back on...there are 2 paper gaskets that only seal the nut and screw on top from leaking under pressure...if you cant retrieve the needle assy you will have to remove the bowl assy as a whole and get it from the inside...if you have damaged the needle valve (Viton tip) then you will have to replace just the needle assy which are available at most car parts stores or performance shops and can be done without removing the carb or the bowl..do not replace with an edelbrock...they are a poor copy of a thermoquad and most end up at swap meets or junked out...the only thing wrong with holly's are people don't know how to adjust them....theres a reason why racers still run them or variations of them ..if you have more questions shoot me an email ...hope this helps
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Today's Featured Article - Tractor Hydraulics - The Basics - by Curtis Von Fange. Hydraulics was one of the greatest inventions for helping man compound the work he can do. It’s amazing how a little floor jack can lift tons and tons of weight with just the flick of a handle. What’s even more amazing is that all the principals of hydraulic theory can be wrapped up in such a small package. This same package applies to any hydraulic system from the largest bulldozer to the oldest and smallest tractor. This short series will take a look at the basic layout of a simple hydraul
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