Congratulations, you've found the rectifier/voltage regulator which rectifies AC from the alternator stator and controls battery charging, but doesn't have ANYTHING to do with it not running!. Part # stamped on it, 491546, positively identifies it as such.
Engine makes it's own power for spark, at each coil/ignition unit, NO battery power is needed.
There's two electronic ignition coils connected in common through diodes to the "kill" wire or terminal on the engine. (second wire leaving the engine, besides wire from the regulator). The key switch/and/or safety switches ground this to chassis ground to stop the engine or prevent it from starting.
Disconnect that second wire and the ignition system of the engine is on it's own and spark should return.
Just remember, if it starts with that wire disconnected, the key switch won't shut it off!
If it DOES spark with the "kill" wire disconnected you can then trace the wiring in the machine and see what's shorted or what safety switch is shorting the "kill"wire to ground.
If spark does NOT return, you'll have to look under the flywheel shrouding to see if anything has happened to that wiring harness connecting the coils, as it's pretty unlikely BOTH coils have failed.
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Today's Featured Article - Tuning-Up Your Tractor: Secondary Ignition Wires and Distributor - by Curtis Von Fange. In our last episode we spent the entire day checking out the spark plugs. Is that efficency? Actually, it took more time to explain than it really did to do the inspection. At any rate we decided that a compression test was in order so we could verify the internal engine status. That way we wouldn't buy any tune up parts until we were sure that the engine was in reasonable mechanical condition. Our tests showed a fictional compression reading of 85, 80, 82 and 86 psi. That is well within a
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