As best I can recall, the GMD 66 calls for something like 45 hp to drive it. As far as handling... you probably want a 7k pound tractor or better, moreso if you're on steep ground. I seldom run one on less than a Ford 5000, and generally not that small. IN terms of value... I suppose it's worth what you suggest if it works. The killer with these things is you don't know how long someone ran it without oil before you got it. Get it on the air, vertical... and find the drain plug on the bottom of the bar and the bevel gearbox. Drain them both and see what kind of crap comes out. If it's not full of metal you probably got a good one. Refill to the respective level plugs with 80W90 (the bevel gearbox must be filled with the bar horizontal, level with the same plug you drained it from. Also observe the bar for leaks once you get ti running. After you shut it down, raise it up and look for tracers... they can sometimes leak from the gear pinions... or the outer bar seal ring... or wear a hole in the bar pan. Beyond that the GMD is a nearly indestructible bar. Put a new set of knives in it. Keep the belts TIGHT (about 3/4" deflection in the center of the span) and keep lots of grease on the shaft joints. Eventually the jackshaft bearings will fail. Replace them and install a grease nipple in the center of the bearing housing (leave the inner seals off the bearings)... and you'll get a good long while from them after that.
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Today's Featured Article - A 1937 John Deere Unstuck - by Gary Hickman. Here is my story of how I got the pistons out of a 1937 JD B that the engine had been stuck for about 14 years: About 12 years ago my Dad gave me one of the tractors I ran as I was growing up on our farm in central Nebraska. The engine on this tractor, a 1937 John Deere "B", had been stuck for 2 years before he gave it to me. This last spring (1999) I hauled the tractor to our 2 acre lot in St. Libory Nebraska where it joined my antique machinery collection, at that time a 1929 Caterpillar T
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