Why swap out the bad rear end with another worn-out differential? You will not find a good junk yard rear end, as they tend to go at around 100K. My guess is that one has already been rebuilt at least once.
I assume "going out" means the bearings are getting loose, causing the rear end to make noise and leak oil. And if they haven't already been replaced, the ring and pinion gears are likely gone. Minimal rebuild will require a bearing kit which runs about $150. For less than 500 bucks, you can buy the parts for a full rebuild: bearing kit, ring and pinion set and wheel bearings. Add another 500 bucks and you can upgrade to a TruTrac locking differential (assuming it doesn't already have a locker). I've done a rebuild myself, I won't say it was easy but it wasn't terribly difficult; you need a dial indicator to set up the backlash. Or, for about 500 bucks labour you can have a rear end shop do the whole job.
I doubt it has a 4.10 rear end. I'm not sure what was offered in '95, but I think 3.48 or 3.73 is more likely.
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Today's Featured Article - Fasteners: The Nuts and Bolts of Nuts and Bolts - by Curtis Von Fange. The nuts and bolts of nuts and bolts is an interesting and essential piece of knowledge that applies to our older tractors. An improperly torqued capscrew on an engine head or a shear bolt that is too hard on the driving shaft of a bushog can create havoc and make an expensive and uncalled for repair. Let�s examine the purpose and design of these fasteners in order to ensure their proper use. Fasteners are probably one of the aspects of mechanics that is given the least amount of thought.
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