If you're going to be in the baling business you better get and read the manual for that baler. Chasing a dealer to come fix a knotter problem when there's a black cloud on the horizon isn't going to get you anything but wet hay.
So...
Needle strike is actually spec. I forget now which side it's supposed to strike on but it needs to hold something like 5 pounds side tension on the needle. I would check the book... but I think what you see there is normal.
The twine wrapped around the knotter frame suggests to me that the twine is not cut. If the twine is not cut, my first go to is the twine knife on the stripper arm. Remove the bolt that holds the knotter frame in place at the rear and flip the knotter up. From there you can see how to remove the knife on that particular baler. Either the knife will come off the stripper arm or you remove the stripper. Take it and file the knives until it will easily cut the twine you're using with minimum pressure. That will probably solve your problem. If it doesn't, then post back with whatever new ailment it has. To test... I just empty the baler, run it at idle... and very carefully and with appropriate timing... grab the strings, pull them out and while holding tension on both, trip the knotter. If it will tie in the yard it will generally tie in the field provided the hay dogs are working properly.
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Today's Featured Article - What Oil Should I Use? - by Francis Robinson. I keep seein this question pop up over and over again in discussion groups all over the web. As with many things there are often several right answers and a few wrong ones. Some purist I'm sure will disagree to no end with what I will tell you but most of us out here in the real world don't really care do we ? Some of them only bring their noses down out of the air long enough to look down them anyway. If you are like me you are only doing this old tractor stuff because you enjoy it. You
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