I don't think you will make money on that "investment", but it may not depreciate as fast as a newer vehicle either. My guess is the collector car market for muscle cars is already past its peak because the baby boomers that are most interested in those cars are past their peak earnings age and moving getting into their retirement years. As aging collectors liquidate their inventories it will be a buyer's market.
Find a car you can drive and enjoy "as-is". A rule of thumb for run-of-the-mill restorations is you will be lucky to get back the value of the parts you add and nothing for your labor.
Insurance cost will depend on how you use the car. A daily driver will cost about the same to insure as any other car, but making repairs after an accident could be difficult because insurance companies will want to total any fifty year old car at a low value and part it out rather than repair it. Collector car rates are very low, you insure the car at an appraised (fixed) value, but your use is restricted to travel to travel to and from car shows and to and from repairs. Either way, you carry most of the risk and cost of an accident if you drive it much, check with your insurer before you buy. Keep in mind that older cars are not nearly as safe as newer cars, they are not great daily drivers.
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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