When setting one of them up first you unhook it and set the base ideal of the carb and make all adjustments to the carb , also engine curb timing is set with the vac. lines unhooked as some dist come with a dual vac. system , one side of the vac. dia. retards base line timing while the other gives advance timing . The whole system was a pain in the drain . But once you had the base lines all set then ya hooked up all the vac . lines and plugged in the SMOOG ideal and set the ideal RPM's , this usually would bring the engine RPM's up around 150-200 RPM's higher . Then once you turned the key off the solenoid would allow the carb lingage to drop back to base line to reduce dieseling . I use to work at a Ford dealership back then . BUT when nobody was looking we would set them to RUN and forget about EPA . Little tricks like a BEE BEE in the retard line change the curve inside the dist. Add a few more degrees to the base timing , jet changes in the carbs , power valve changes .
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Today's Featured Article - New Hitches For Your Old Tractor - by Chris Pratt. For this article, we are going to make the irrational and unlikely assumption that you purchased an older tractor that is in tip top shape and needs no immediate repairs other than an oil change and a good bath. To the newcomer planning to restore the machine, this means you have everything you need for the moment (something to sit in the shop and just look at for awhile while you read the books). To the newcomer that wants to get out and use the machine for field work, you may have already hit a major roadblock. That is the dreaded "proprietary hitch". With the exception of the
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