I will have to disagree about using "soft" rings. While a soft ring will always seat faster than a harder ring, it will also wear out in a much shorter time. Chances are that your original rings were a combination of chrome and cast iron. Most times, the top compression ring is chrome and the second ring is iron followed by an oil control set in the bottom groove.
All things considered, how much would be saved by not just going with a full set of sleeves, pistons, and rings? If you are only tripping over $50 or $100, you might want to rethink the whole thing. You just never know what you might find when you take out the old pistons. Ring lands might be bad, bores could be scored, sleeves could be worn out, piston skirts collapsed, or wrist pin problems. All of this would be taken care of by putting a kit into it. Then you would have an engine in really top condition.
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Today's Featured Article - My Ford Golden Jubilee - by Troy Estes. This article is about my '53 Ford Jubilee and a story that starts with taking the tractor to my brother's Starter/Alternator Rebuilding shop for a wiring fix. The generator was shot as well as all the wiring. I dropped off the tractor expecting a transformation from a 6 volt to a 12 volt system utilizing the original generator housing, and a total rewiring of the whole tractor. The front end center pin bushing was worn also so I ask that they replace it if they had time. Well, that’s wha
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