Yes, you can get by with replacing the rings only. Not uncommon at all, especially on a gas engine, even more so if it's hard work days are past.
As long as the cylinder walls are not scored, just hit them with a glaze breaker hone, go back with soft rings (iron, not chrome if available). But one thing commonly overlooked is the condition of the piston ring lands. If they are beyond tolerance chances are the rings will not seat or be short lived. Also check the skirt to bore clearance, and the wrist pin bushings. Looseness of either will cause annoying knocking, but will probably still run a long time.
Now, here's the decision you need to make...
Do you go ahead and install it as is? From the description it sounds like a good engine. If it idles well, that is a good indication the compression is good. You may want to go ahead and check the valve clearance, run a compression test while it is still running. Since there is no blow-by or smoke, that is a good indication the rings are good.
Or, do you go ahead and tear into it while it is out? That way, if you find more serious problems, like the crank needing to come out, rear main seal replaced, etc., then everything is accessible. Also no laying under it with oil dripping in your face!
The sound you are hearing, (if the compression is good, no broken valve springs, sticking valves from sitting) it is probably just needing some TLC, tuning, checking the distributor for wear, timing, carb cleaned, etc.
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Today's Featured Article - The Rescue of a Fordson F - by Anthony West. Introduction I live in the UK and have for many years restored Fordson tractors (in the main model N's). I have also restored and shown model F's, E 27N's, Field Marshall Series 2, David Brown Cropmasters and the old rey Fergeson T 20. At one time I had seven restored examples which were shown and used in ploughing matches. As most restorers, I have a number of war stories I can relate on a range of topics that may help other like minded and interested people. Perhaps my first p
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