There are also a couple of coolant dye kits out there that you can try. Google 'coolant dye test' and should be able to find one, or try your local Napa. The dye is a UV liquid, and then you'll need the right kind of light to check it. I suspect doing the test in the dark with the UV light source would be best. Might even see a light ring around the tailpipe if the leak is into the combustion area, and you run it for a while with the dye in solution.
Pressure test first, and if still no luck, then try the dye, but DON'T tell the dealer you used the dye kit as it's likely not covered by warranty. I'd just keep taking it to the dealer since you have the engine covered. This will also document your case should it fail later after warranty, and you want a discount from the dealer. Coolant leaks are not catastrophic, they grow, and get worse over time.
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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