If you're sure you got the tip of the lift control lever inserted into the hole in the valve control lever (as Eric O. would say on South Main Auto, it's the classic "reach around", where you lower the engine hoist with your left hand while reaching through the right inspection cover and guiding the lever into its hole with your right hand), did you do the quadrant adjustment? Maybe the quadrant support plate needs to be moved further backwards.
Did you replace the pressure relief valve in the pump, and is it screwed in tight?
How much UTTC fluid did you add after the rebuild? It takes a total of 5 gallons, assuming you drained the transmission and differential well, too. Don't rely on the dipstick in the right inspection cover because they often get all screwed up and read inaccurately. Instead, remove the lowest bolt from the right inspection cover and fill it until fluid begins to run out of that hole.
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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