I usually am not one to answer questions that were not asked but have been there done that with iffy fuel tanks and can guess where you are at. Unless you clean that tank out thoroughly inside and out to open up all those "almost a holes" you can plan to be chasing your tail for some time and even when you think it is fixed it will soon be leaking once more, sorry but that is how it works out. As much as it hurts to watch it seemingly destroy what your trying to fix you need to sandblast or grind and wire wheel the the outside until it is clean and then clean the rust from the inside. Best way I have to do that is to place a couple coffee cans full of small nuts washers and bolts or even roofing nails and then tumble it. I tie them to my cement mixer. You then need to put some muratic acid in the tank and swish it around and rinse thoroughly. Ya, it will look like swiss cheese at this point but you will then see why it needs to be done this way. all those holes were soon to be leaking. I use regular 50-50 or 60-40 soft solder, bar solder works best and you need a good flux such as Ruby fluid.Also a copper iron works much better than trying to use a torch. Once tinned the correct technique, heat and solder will fill the holes. When it will hold water dry it and coat the inside with whatever tank coating you like, I use redcoat.
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Today's Featured Article - What Oil Should I Use? - by Francis Robinson. I keep seein this question pop up over and over again in discussion groups all over the web. As with many things there are often several right answers and a few wrong ones. Some purist I'm sure will disagree to no end with what I will tell you but most of us out here in the real world don't really care do we ? Some of them only bring their noses down out of the air long enough to look down them anyway. If you are like me you are only doing this old tractor stuff because you enjoy it. You
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