That is a tough looking problem. I don't see any taper on the axle and without taper it would be hard to get everything tight enough to not move I think. There is a LOT of torque going through that axle to hub joint. ANY movement will allow it to happen again. The key will have to be a tight fit and the hub to axle a tight, (press) fit I think for it to have any hope of lasting. Whether you get new used parts or fix the old ones I think this applies. If the hub is cast iron it may be difficult to fix wit welding and I an to sure you want to be welding on the axle. Using the old parts I would widen out the key, keeping it on the same side of the axle, you don't want a big "hole" in the axle opposite a new key I don't think. Possibly the hub could be bored out and a bushing with a new keyway welded in. You have a tough one here. I hope you can get a good repair.
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Today's Featured Article - Ford Part Number Trivia - by Forum Participants. "Replaced by" means the part was superseded. All of my part books date back to 1964 and New Holland have changed some part numbers. They usually put the old Ford part number on the package. I was suppressed when I looked up the part number of the auxiliary drive shaft because for some reason the part number went through a radical change and it lost its "Basic Part Number". Ford part numbers follow the following rules. Most part numbers are in three parts. The middle part is called the
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