Each motor will have a tag showing the FLA (full load amps). Add all the motors together that will be running at the same time, and any other lights, any outlets, etc. Then add at least another 20%. That will give amp load. Then use a ampacity chart to determine the wire size. If it's a long run, say over 200ft, go up a size.
You can use direct burial cable, or run PVC conduit. I prefer the conduit, that way if there is a problem you can repull the wire without having to dig it up. Conduit is cheap.
Either way, do bring conduit up out of the ground to make the connections. Don't make any connections under ground or in an inaccessible place. The depth depends on local code (if applicable) and where it will be run. If a non traffic area, no reason there will be any digging, 18" should be sufficient. If under a driveway, especially heavy vehicle traffic, it will need to be deeper.
For a 120v circuit, you will need a black, white, and green stranded THHN wire (if running in conduit) or a "xx ga 2 conductor with ground" UF-B cable. For 220v, 2 black, 1 white, 1 green, or "xx ga 3 conductor with ground" UF-B cable. I would suggest running 220v to both, just so it will be there if needed.
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Today's Featured Article - Product Review: Lead Substitutes - by Mike Schordine. Lead was oriinally added to gasoline as an upper cylinder lubricant. It lubes the valves and seats. If you rebuild the motor, you could use hardened seats and valves, and unleaded fuel. But if your old tractor runs good, a simple lead substitute added to the gas is a perfectly reasonable solution. And, if you are like me, your tractor is under cover, but it sits outside. So with every temperature change, the humidity in the air collects in the fuel tank, in the form of water.
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