The grade 70 chains with binders of a similar strength will work. You need enough tie down for half the load weight in forward and backward movement, and there are some G forces figured in there also. Don't recall all the details. The chains and binders do need to be labeled with the rating, or they will be figured at the weakest strength level. I have some I cut in half then added a hook to the ends for shorter chains. You can also use the ends and let the slack hang in the middle between your binders. Another words hook one end to the trailer and the other end to the trailer then use a binder with it around the draw bar to the one side then a binder to the other side the loose will hang in the middle of the trailer. I don't like straps for things like equipment as it allows it to bounce some in the stretch of the strap. A chain will be tight and solid. Nothing wrong with straps legality wise. For Geo in TH You can buy the straps you want with the chain already attached to the strap I get my straps and chains from truck dealers and from Tri-couny Tarp in Bradner OH They are good people to work with too. I have found even the truck dealers are reasonable on some things. I have used both the USA and China made chains and binders with no problems. Big thing is to make sure they have the rating on then.
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Today's Featured Article - Tractor Traction - by Chris Pratt. Our first bout with traction problems came when cultivatin with our Massey-Harris Pony. Up till then, this tractor had been running a corn grinder and pulling a trailer. It had new unfilled rear tires and no wheel weights. The garden was already sprouting when we hooked up the mid-mount shovel cultivators to the Pony. The seed bed was soft enough that the rear end would spin and slowly work its way to the downhill side of the gardens slight incline. From this, we learned our lesson sinc
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