I always used a grade 5...in the past. I didn't realize that there was a way to improve your recovery effort when you shear one. Use a Grade 2. Grade 2 isn't as brittle as 5 and surely less brittle than the Grade 8, ¼" recommended by JD for my roundbaler, but instead of snapping and in shearing, they leave you something to find when you have your new bolt in hand and hammer and punch. Also, rather than snapping during an overload, they sometimes just partially shear, whereby the bolt gets a notch in it but still works fine.
Other thing I found that really helps keep them alive is that I quit locking the nut/lock washer down tight on the yoke. I have been using Grade 2 with a locking nut, with the nut gapped off the yoke and I don't remember the last time I sheared a bolt.
Just something I picked up over the years that went contrary to my initial way of thinking.
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Today's Featured Article - Ford Part Number Trivia - by Forum Participants. "Replaced by" means the part was superseded. All of my part books date back to 1964 and New Holland have changed some part numbers. They usually put the old Ford part number on the package. I was suppressed when I looked up the part number of the auxiliary drive shaft because for some reason the part number went through a radical change and it lost its "Basic Part Number". Ford part numbers follow the following rules. Most part numbers are in three parts. The middle part is called the
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