100-200 amperes is a good range for smaller tractor starting requirements. Considering a static charge voltage of 12.75 (my 24/7/365 go-no go number) to put 10 volts ACROSS the starter....input terminal to case of the starter, not frame of the tractor or anything else not physically part of the starter, with that voltage you only have 2.75 volts to spare. Taking worst case which could be for a 100 hp diesel in the winter, a number of 200 amps, (12.75-10)/200 = 0.0125 ohms max. in the entire system....internal battery, interconnecting cables and terminations, and starter windings and brushes. To tell you how small that resistance is, if you are using a Digital Multi Meter, go to the lowest ohm scale you have (200 probably) and touch your leads together. My meter reads 0.4 ohms. Back in the days of the analog meter, like Simpson to name a popular brand, you could zero out that lead resistance but can't now.
A load test of your battery checks the cell/sulphate condition. If you can dial up 200 amps and the terminal voltage is still at 11v or above that's a go for me. Others surely have different numbers.
Cables of adequate cross sectional area, like AWG size 0 or 00 are excellent; longer the run, larger the diameter required. All terminations need to be clean, bright, and tight....clean and bright on the inside where the current flows.
Don't overlook the starter case to battery return lead in your system hygiene. I like to polish off a spot on the starter case, under a mounting bolt where the battery return lead touches the case and the bolt holds it and the starter to the engine block.
Then that leaves brushes and armature conditions. --------------- On 2ea 6v in series vs a single 12v or pair in parallel, the 2ea 6v in series is the worst option since all the circuit and battery resistances are in series and add up to restrict current flow and starting ease.
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