As a 'workaround' solution, I can see why one would do this. Just allow a certain amount of resistance to build up as heat is generated during cranking. But - not ideal, or even recommended. Large, hot wires are not a good plan.
Get a 12V starter, or if you really want to get resistance find an old carbon pile or resistance box and mount it to the side of the tractor and wire it in to provide the kind of voltage drop needed.
Better yet, properly maintain a 6V system and it'll do the job just fine. I started my 8N in Feb up in CO at 9F to plow some snow. Good oil, good cables, Working carb and choke. It took a few cranks to keep it going, but I never worried about destroying my starter while it was cranking. Keeping the terminals and connections clean and free of corrosion is just regular maintenance. I also let it run for a bit after starting to warm up correctly, and charge the batt back up to it's normal voltage.
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Today's Featured Article - The Nuts and Bolts of Fasteners - Part 2 - by Curtis Von Fange. In our previous article we discussed capscrews, bolts, and nuts along with their relative hardness and thread sizes. In this segment we will finish up on our fasteners and then work with ways to keep them from loosening up in the field. Capscrews, bolts and nuts are not the only means of holding two parts together. When dealing with thinner metals like sheet tin, a long bolt and
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