I agree with Scott plus widen out the tractor as much as practical. If you run row crops you may want to do 38" rows or use duals when doing row crop work. You may not feel you need the HP but you need weight and stability to anchor loads on those hills. Oh, and you need the HP to pull those loads up wet slippery hills.
Having grown up on bad hills in the Kettle Moraine in Wisconsin and now helping farmers on the ridges and coulees of Western Wisconsin I feel you are going in the wrong direction. Set up correctly that Case will be your savior but if you really want something different you should be looking at a JD 4020, JD 4230, IH 1066, Case 1030, Case 1070, MF 1100 (w/o mp because I think it coasts when engaged)etc. I would stay away from a tractor that "coasts" when a torque amplifier is engaged. Also, I am a strong believer in a ROPS like on the JD's.
For example, my friend had only one tractor, a JD 1520. He took a lot of scary rides with his baler and wagon behind. He got a JD 4230, he would never give up that tractor.
Second example, when I was a teen my Dad bought a second farm. He bought a 190 XT, before that our big tractor was a 54 HP Massey Harris 444 Standard. Comparatively, that 190 XT (fluid and weighted) was a shear joy to drive up, down and sideways on those hills with loads.
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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