Suggestions go from common sense to ridiculous. So, here is mine... First, I would drain the tank as much as is practical outside. Makes sense to me. Second, I would bring it inside. Whether you are going to run the heat or not is a matter of using common sense. If there are a lot of vapors from the leaking tank, I would not use anything with a flame. That includes the propane salamander and the wood stove. Electric heater would be much safer since it uses no flame. Third, while it is nice and comfortable to do your work in a nice warm shop, it is safer to turn off the heat and just get the job done.
I notice that there are a number of suggestions on how to deal with the leak. I suggest ha those folks have not read your complete post. I clearly read that you are REPLACING the tank, not REPAIRING it. That would seem to me to eliminate the need for repairing it.
So, good luck with your tank replacement and hopefully there will not be a lot of issues with stubborn fasteners or other difficulties.
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Today's Featured Article - Tuning Up Your Tractor: The Battery - by Curtis Von Fange. Buried somewhere beneath the sheetmetal, under the gas tank, or stuffed in front of the radiator is the battery. This elusive and neglected component of the tractor is the hardest to get to when it is dead and in need of a jump. But usually, the storage battery is a storehouse of electrical energy waiting to be released a the flick of a switch. A few maintenance tips and periodic cleaning will keep it charged for the duration of its life span. The battery is made up of a number of lead bas
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