Re: Re: Re: Re: Gasket Coatings
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Posted by Jeff King on October 04, 1998 at 19:56:27:
In Reply to: Re: Re: Re: Gasket Coatings posted by Nellie on October 04, 1998 at 04:59:41:
: : : Thanks guys!, Dan and Milan. This information and insight is priceless for a winter project coming up. : I use aluminum paint also on metal head gaskets with not one failure. Recommend perfectly machined surfaces when using. Clean to. Brake cleaner works good, acetone better. Use spray on copper coat for less than perfect head surfaces. Use RTV silicone on every thing else. Spread real thin. Sometimes with no gasket at all. Grease works well on good surfaces with little pressure on them. Do not use sealer on turbos!!! Sealer can and will enter the oil inlet and stop up small ports in the bearing housing. Have turned down lots of turbo warranty claims when silicone was found in the housing ports. : : : Diesel Dan (the pump man) O---[o{] : : I use the spray on Copper Coat on head gskts. with imperfect surfaces. It has never failed me. I also have used it on engine sleeves going into a cracked cylinder bore. Don't use too much on the sleeve and get it in while the wetness is still in the coating. I haven't had need to use aluminum spray, but have heard good about it. : : I like using High Tack on other engine gaskets which have a tendency to walk out of place. Spray it on and let it set for 10 minutes before installing and it works better. Works good on rubber, cork, paper, etc., but it won't let the piece come apart easy next time. High Tack is a really good protector for battery cable clamps. It is even better than the thinner spray on protector designed for this purpose. It will save many problems with corrodeing clamps. : : Silicone works good on many things, but I've set a method of spreading it thin and then going around the entire gasket with it between finger & thumb to spread it even thinner. Too much on some gaskets will make the gasket break or walk out of place. The finger & thumb movement around the entire gasket surfaces, leaves just enough to make it tacky and quick to set. : : Permatex is the old reliable that I mainly use on the metal frame of a seal. Even the seals with a painted on sealer will occasionally get started with some of the paint coming off. Permatex elimiantes any possible leaks. : : New heavy cast trans. frames, etc. use 515, a sealer that sets up when pressure is applied to it. It is expensive, but will really strengthen up the frame. I have also used it on the metal frame of seals with great success. Don't use it on engines. It will often require some hard blows from a heavy hammer to break it's grip between two pieces. : : Milan H. Dilworth CASE-IH Tractor Shop Everything said above is right on the money. I have used spray on KW Copper Coat on pitted deck blocks and heads with excellent results. The only thing I would add is 3M Super Weatherstrip Adhesive, AKA "Yellow Death". Is actually a thick contact adhesive in a tube. If you have a gasket that wants to crawl out of place, use it and it won't after that. Best advice is to use it to glue the gasket to a sheet metal part, then a little silicone sealer on the side getting mated up to the engine. This stuff is nearly permanent. To get it off you need a powered wire wheel or a hot tank, but I've never had it fail. Best luck. Jeff King
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