Two main choices: 1) Put a U shaped connector on the existing down pipe and run it up beside the engine with a fabricated bracket to hold it as it passes the hood. The bracket must be rigid in front to back, and side to side forces, and made from 3/16 to 1/4" thick strap 1 inch wide. The U pipe must stay 2 inches away from the hood. I would also screw a stainless steel plate .060" thick and covering the area close to the pipe. The muffler should exit the exhaust 6 to 8 inches above your head. A rain cap facing sideways will also deflect fumes away. 2) find the exhaust manifold from a through the hood exhaust. Use a sheet metal hole punch set to create a smooth hole 1/2" bigger in radius than the pipe. (rent it) or have it cut, no tinsnips or plasma torch on this. Same height and cap. Jim
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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