Circulation through the heater says the pump is working. It is very rare for a pump to not move coolant. It is possible for the impeller to rust away, but takes years of system neglect for that to happen. I've only seen one impeller fail, a plastic one that split and fell off, of course there was no movement at all.
Are you sure it really is overheating? Can you verify the temp gauge is accurate? Did it still show high temp with the one thermostat out?
If it ran cool with one thermostat out, I would replace both thermostats. That would be the easiest and least costly first approach. Then see what happens.
If it still overheats (and you know the gauge is good), look for symptoms of a head/head gasket problem, such as mysterious loss of coolant with no external leak, over pressurizing and blowing coolant out the cap, water condensation under the oil cap, valve cover, dip stick tube.
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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