It's been a long time, but I will recall what I can. That set up was the major problem with those tractors. The PTO clutch system, if left with the lever latched to the rear, would push the crankshaft forward through the thrust bearing, until major engine damage resulted. That's why they offered the retrofit, external, front mounted, Timken, greasable thrust bearing.
As I recall, you were supposed to be able to pull the PTO clutch lever back, with the engine running, pull up on the PTO shifter to engage the drive line, then release the clutch lever forward, engaging the PTO. As I remember it never worked that way, without grinding the shifter. And as I recall, you couldn't start the engine with the PTO shifter engaged, because of a safety switch.
You could have any number of problems, with worn linkage, clutch, bearings, cable, etc. Anything hooked to the PTO ought to offer enough resistance to stop the PTO. If you're fortunate, some adjusting might remedy the situation. If I had kept the tractor, I would have bypassed the safety switch on the PTO shifter, so that I could start the tractor after pulling the clutch back, and engaging the shifter. Then I would still use the clutch lever properly, leaving it forward as much as possible. I wouldn't be trying to start the tractor with the PTO engaged and hooked to an implement.
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Today's Featured Article - Tuning Up Your Tractor: The Battery - by Curtis Von Fange. Buried somewhere beneath the sheetmetal, under the gas tank, or stuffed in front of the radiator is the battery. This elusive and neglected component of the tractor is the hardest to get to when it is dead and in need of a jump. But usually, the storage battery is a storehouse of electrical energy waiting to be released a the flick of a switch. A few maintenance tips and periodic cleaning will keep it charged for the duration of its life span. The battery is made up of a number of lead bas
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