Re: Why No Spark

Posted by John T on July 24, 2016 at 05:15:58 from (216.249.81.101):

In Reply to: Why No Spark posted by BolivarRatman on July 23, 2016 at 22:36:08:

HERES A SLOW STEP BY STEP TROUBLESHOOTING PROCESS FOR YOU

SEE MY COMPLETE IGNITION TROUBLESHOOTING LINK BELOW

1) Very first thing, with Ignition ON there has to be voltage present on the high INPUT (NOT to distributor) side of the coil............That's true regardless if its points or an elec module.

2) If NOTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTT see if it has a ballast resistance wire either on the back of the Ign switch itself, or in series between switch and coils high INPUT. NO FIRE UNTILL THERES VOLTAGE ON THE COILS SMALL HIGH INPUT TERMINAL WITH IGN SWITCH ON If NOT try a hot jump wire to coils high INPUT (NOT to distributor) terminal and see if it fires then????????????? That eliminates any Ign switch or ballast wire or ballast resistor problem. NOTE if it uses a ballast resistor wire on the switch itself or ballast resistor between switch and coil and its bad/open NO FIRE AS THERE MUST BE VOLTAGE TO THE COIL (via switch and any if so equipped ballast resistor wire or resistor) WITH IGN ON!!!!!!! Also if it uses a ballast resistor it may use a 6 instead of a 12 volt coil !!!!

3) Another sort of on tractor bench test, is to jump a hot wire to the coils small high input (NOT to dist) terminal to eliminate any switch or ballast problem,,,,,,,,,,,,,,REMOVE the wire from coils output to dist stud (to eliminate any inside dist problem),,,,,,,,,,,,,,use a jumper wire to momentarily attach then remove a circuit from coils output to frame ground,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,EACH TIME THE WIRE IS GROUNDED BUT THEN REMOVED, THE COIL SHOULD FIRE !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

3) Once you have voltage on the coils small high input terminal (via switch and any on switch or series resistor wire or ballast) put a test lamp or meter on the coils other small OUTPUT to distributor terminal. It should be the same voltage as on the coils input when points are open, but zero volts when they are closed. If the engine was cranked slowly a test lamp on coils output to dist (or dist input stud) should flash ON (points open) and OFF (points closed) NO FIRE UNTIL THAT HAPPENS.

NOW FOR A MORE COMPLETE AND DETAILED METHOD AND REASONS FOR FIRE OR NO FIRE, CLICK ON THE URL LINK BELOW AND FOLLOW MY TROUBLESHOOTING PROCEDURE.

There MUST be voltage to the coils input with Ign on from switch and any if so equipped ballast wire or resistance,,,,,,,,,,,,,There MUST be voltage on the coils output to dist with points OPEN, but zero volts when closed

(A) If its always zero volts (no light) on coils output, the points are closed orrrrrrrrrrrr condenser is shorted orrrrrrrrrr the points or condenser wire or points themselves are shorted orrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr the PASS THRU INSULATOR ON SIDE OF DIST IS SHORTED OUT TEST FOR THAT !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

(B) If theres always voltage on coils output to dist terminal (should be volts when points open but none when closed), points aren't closing down full orrrrrrrrrrrrrr a wires bad/open from coil to dist pass thru then points orrrrrrrrrrrr dist or points arent well grounded.

DISCLAMIER I'm NOT a New Generation expert and not any 1020 man and not sure if it has the resistor wire on back of switch or resistor ballast wire from switch to coil !!!! REGARDLESS there MUST be voltage to the coils small input terminal with IGN ON or the switch is bad or ballast wire (if so equipped) is bad/open. SIMILAR the voltage on coils output or dist stud must flash ON and OFF as engine is rotated.

JOHN T'S IGNITION TROUBLESHOOTING http://www.ytmag.com/cgi-bin/viewit.cgi?bd=farmall&th=5745

John T

• John T's Ignition Troubleshooting

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