YESSSSSSSSSS Ive had that before, manyyyyyyyyyyyy times when a plug was fouling.
FWIW I AGREE. If a plug wont fire but will if you remove the wire just off the plug and let the spark jump, its indicative of a fouling plug. The reason for that is if oil or soot or carbon are providing a shorting conductive path for the coils energy, it will bleed off and not rise to a sudden high enough voltage to arc jump the plug gap.
The same (only) set of points and condensor and coil fires BOTH plugs, so if you have a situation where one wont fire but the other one will, typical causes are in the cap and rotor or a bad plug wire or as above, a bad plug. You can swap plugs and wires to see if its a wire or plug problem or if it stays on one cap terminal alllllllllll the time regardless.
Clean and check and gap the points (replace if badly burned or pitted) and install a fresh set of plugs and see what happens, if no cure post back
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Today's Featured Article - Ford Part Number Trivia - by Forum Participants. "Replaced by" means the part was superseded. All of my part books date back to 1964 and New Holland have changed some part numbers. They usually put the old Ford part number on the package. I was suppressed when I looked up the part number of the auxiliary drive shaft because for some reason the part number went through a radical change and it lost its "Basic Part Number". Ford part numbers follow the following rules. Most part numbers are in three parts. The middle part is called the
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