That the starter tried to engage is a good indication there are no problems with the electrical system or ignition switch.
Start with the volt meter across the battery posts (not the cable ends, the actual battery posts), and try the starter. If the voltage drops to below 8 to 9 volts, the battery is dead or bad. If the voltage remains high, up around 12 volts, the battery is good, and there is a bad connection.
From there, start moving the test leads, one at a time, from the battery post to the cable end, to the other end of the cable, to the engine block, to the solenoid, etc., each time load testing it by trying to crank it. Once you find the place where the voltage drops, you will have found the problem. Pay close attention to bad grounds, they can be particularly difficult to find. Any connection that gets hot is a bad connection.
If you trace the voltage all the way to the starter post and starter case, the starter is bad.
This is easier to do with a helper to try the starter while you hold the test leads. But remember to keep in mind, the engine could crank any time while running these tests! Be sure to keep clear of any moving parts and that it in not in gear!
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Today's Featured Article - Product Review: Lead Substitutes - by Mike Schordine. Lead was oriinally added to gasoline as an upper cylinder lubricant. It lubes the valves and seats. If you rebuild the motor, you could use hardened seats and valves, and unleaded fuel. But if your old tractor runs good, a simple lead substitute added to the gas is a perfectly reasonable solution. And, if you are like me, your tractor is under cover, but it sits outside. So with every temperature change, the humidity in the air collects in the fuel tank, in the form of water.
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