Posted by oldtanker on April 30, 2016 at 08:41:39 from (64.118.3.19):
In Reply to: Current path posted by GregoryKS on April 30, 2016 at 06:09:17:
Quoting Removed, click Modern View to see
Instead of checking wires simple way to do it is measure voltage to the battery side of the coil with the points open. No power? Replace wire. Power? Check the other side or the coil. Power? Clean the points by dragging a clean piece of paper between them with the points closed. No power? Replace coil. If you have power past the coil on the distributor side and the points are clean and adjusted properly check the wire from the coil to the points. IF all the above checks out then you have either bad wires, a bad cap or bad rotor. Now that's providing that the distributer shaft is actually turning while the engine is being cranked.
Now going a little deeper. If everything checks out and it doesn't make spark when cranking odds are the starter system for one reason or another is pulling too much power cranking the engine not leaving enough to power the ignition system. There problems can range from the cheap easy fix of cleaning all connections to having a bad battery, under charged battery, bad batt cables or a bad starter.
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Today's Featured Article - My Ford Golden Jubilee - by Troy Estes. This article is about my '53 Ford Jubilee and a story that starts with taking the tractor to my brother's Starter/Alternator Rebuilding shop for a wiring fix. The generator was shot as well as all the wiring. I dropped off the tractor expecting a transformation from a 6 volt to a 12 volt system utilizing the original generator housing, and a total rewiring of the whole tractor. The front end center pin bushing was worn also so I ask that they replace it if they had time. Well, that’s wha
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