Posted by MarkB_MI on April 19, 2016 at 19:14:33 from (70.194.4.208):
In Reply to: radiant floor heat posted by cdv on April 18, 2016 at 19:31:24:
Forget about the bubble wrap. Use real insulation.
It's most critical to insulate around the perimeter of your slab. 2" foam. Next most important thing is under the slab, and you want 40 psi rigid foam to support the concrete. Minimum 1 inch thick. As for the walls and ceiling, it should be obvious that the more insulation the better.
I did a fair amount of research into radiant floor heat several years ago when I poured my floor, so my PEX tubing is ready to be hooked up. I have yet to complete insulation of the shop, so the system isn't hooked up yet. You need about 1 linear foot of 1/2" tubing per square foot of floor, so you need to run at least 2000 ft of 1/2" PEX. Each loop should be no longer than 250 feet, so that means eight loops. You can run longer loops if you use 3/4", but it will be harder to work with. Spacing is dictated by how much tubing you have.
Note that you need to use "oxygen barrier" PEX for radiant heat systems. Regular PEX doesn't have an O2 barrier.
Figure out where you intend to cut your control joints, and protect the PEX there by shrouding it in those spots with larger tubing. Otherwise slab movement can sever the tubing.
A few years ago, everyone was using small water heaters for boilers. But these days very nice tankless units are available. They're pricey, but they take up very little space. Check out Menard's web site for some reasonably-priced tankless heater and control panels. The downside of tankless is it needs more Btus/hr than a conventional water heater, so you may need to run a bigger gas line to run a tankless boiler.
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