I would start by taking the fuel valve/strainer/separator valve out of the tank and giving it a good cleaning. If there are rust flakes swimming around, dump and rinse the tank.
The fuel line needs to be steel, not copper, and routed the most direct, down hill, and as far from the ex manifold as practical. I think this uses 5/16" tubing, the same as the premade brake lines from the auto supply.
There may also be a screen in the inlet fitting of the carb, if so pull it and clean it. Be sure the screen is in the top of the separator and in good condition. Between the 2 screens, there should be no need for an inline filter. Be sure the gas cap is vented. Even if it says "vented", verify that it really is, sometimes they are not, or the vent is plugged.
Finally, you may want to open the carb, make sure every thing is clean and the float level and drop are correct. Be sure the needle is not sticking in the seat, sometimes they do for mysterious reasons, may be mechanically sticking from a worn rubber tip, or from evaporating ethanol.
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Today's Featured Article - Tractor Profile: Oliver 70 Row Crop - by Staff. The Oliver 70 was part of the "Fleetline Series" and was manufacturered from 1937 to 1948. The row-crop configuration could have either dual or single front wheels. The Oliver 70 was also offered in the standard, orchard and industrial configurations. The tractors were sold in Canada. An early advertisement states "Power when you want it - power when you need it - power to help put in crops when field conditions are right and time and help are limited. That's the power you'll find in an Oliv
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