Sub soiling in the spring rarely does much good. For sub soiling to really work you need the ground to be dry so it shatters. I do not see how your ground would have been dry this spring. In wet ground all you do is cut slots in the ground which do little good for soil structure.
That being said you will now need to prepare a seed bed. It depends on how much trash/dead weeds you have on the top of the ground, which tillage method will work best. If the ground is fairly clean then a field cultivator will provide lose dirt without compaction in the root zone. If you have a lot of trash then your going to need to plow or disk the ground to get a seed bed. Your slope of the ground effects your tillage choices too. I think most of LA is pretty flat but not all of it is. So if you have much slope you will need to leave some residue to help control erosion until your grass gets established. To leave much trash disking lightly will do that.
So let us know how much trash you have and also what equipment you have. If you only have a disk then that is what you need.
Also you need to soil test to see what the fertility of the ground is. Your nutrient level and PH will need to be correct. This will help control some weeds and make you grass grow faster/better.
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Today's Featured Article - The Nuts and Bolts of Fasteners - Part 2 - by Curtis Von Fange. In our previous article we discussed capscrews, bolts, and nuts along with their relative hardness and thread sizes. In this segment we will finish up on our fasteners and then work with ways to keep them from loosening up in the field. Capscrews, bolts and nuts are not the only means of holding two parts together. When dealing with thinner metals like sheet tin, a long bolt and
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