Between Bobcats, and other brands, I've done hundreds of cylinders. In fact I did both lift cylinders on a Bobcat about two months ago.
The best thing to do is what JimWV said. Either that, or find something to prop lay the bucket on to hold the boom up. From there, pull the rod end of the cylinder loose from the boom and let it drop down. Lay a block or something under it to keep it horizontal. Now fire up the machine and "lift" the boom. Given the fact there is no load on the loose cylinder, it will extend out by itself. If you let it bottom, and pressure starts to build, the other cylinder will try to lift the boom by itself, and potentially twist it, so be careful.
Once you have the cylinder extended, break the lines going to the cylinder loose to prevent it from building pressure/vacuum as the rod/cylinder is removed. From there, take the gland loose and remove it and the rod as an assembly. Depending on how tight the seal on the piston is, you may have to use something to pull it all out of the barrel. I had to do this on the last one I rebuilt.
Once it's out, clamp the eye end of the rod in a vice, remove the nut/bolt holding the piston to the rod. Now slide the gland off the end of the rod and remove the seals. Watch as you take them out as there is a right and wrong direction.
To get the rod seal back in takes a combination of finesse and force, but it's really not that hard once you figure out the tricks (ie-it needs to be folded into almost a U shape to get it into it's groove).
Once you've got the new seals on/in the gland, slide it back on the rod. A little Vasoline makes it a lot easier, and it's not as messy as using liquid oil. Next put the piston back on the rod, and tighten the fastener. I usually use a drop of two of red Loctite to insure it doesn't back itself loose.
I can't remember if the kid had new piston seals, but I believe it did. If it does, put them on the piston. Again, watch how the old one comes off.
Once everything is back together start the assembly back into the barrel. You may have to use a hammer to get the piston seals to compress enough to slide everything back in. If so, don't be afraid to give it a few hits. Just watch the piston seals and insure they compress and not try to jump out and wind up damaged. Not trying to scare you here, but just be careful and keep your eyes open. I've only had a couple jump out, so it's not likely, but it can happen.
From there, tighten the gland back up, tighten the lines, and run the boom up and down to get the air out of the system. Once you've done that, repeat the whole procedure on the other side.
Having to do it with one cylinder blocked makes things a bit more of a PITA, and uses a bit more oil than being able to prop things up and doing both cylinders one after another, without having to raise the boom to get the air out of the system so it will stay up for the other side. Either works, but a using something as a prop to hold it up would be my first choice if it was available.
Good luck, and post again of you've got any questions.
Upload one or more videos to your post. Photo filesizes should be less than 300K and Videos, less than 2MB. Formats allowed are gif, jpg, png, ogg, mp4, mov, and avi. Be sure to use filenames without spaces or special characters, and filetypes of 3 digits lower case.
We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today. [ About Us ]
Today's Featured Article - Engine Valves - Some Helpful Information - by Staff. Intake - On the intake stroke the piston moves doward, sucking in carburized fuel through the open intake valve. Exhaust valve is closed. Compression - With both the intake and exhaust valves closed, the pistons upward stroke compresses or squeezes the fuel into the combustion chamber. Firing - Ignited by the spark, the compressed fuel explodes and forces the piston downward on its power stroke. Intake and exhaust valves are closed. Exhaust valves and seats are exp
... [Read Article]
Latest Ad:
Oliver 550 Diesel runs like a watch three point hitch pto engine gone threw about two hundred hours ago nice clean tractor
[More Ads]
All Rights Reserved. Reproduction of any part of this website, including design and content, without written permission is strictly prohibited. Trade Marks and Trade Names contained and used in this Website are those of others, and are used in this Website in a descriptive sense to refer to the products of others. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy
TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V.
