Posted by showcrop on January 09, 2016 at 15:22:03 from (66.31.196.130):
My house is roughly 140 years old of post and beam construction. When we bought it in 1989 it had just been rehabbed with new plumbing electrical, mostly new floors many new walls etc. The exterior walls were insulated with cellulose fiber and the attic has fiberglass. However, it is a story and a half so it has slanted ceilings in the second floor, which have no insulation, so I get ice dams whenever we get a lot of snow, not to speak of the heat loss. The cavities are approx. six feet wide by about eight feet down to the knee walls, and they are only about three inches from the plaster lath to the roof boards with a lot of nails sticking through both surfaces. Ten-fifteen years ago I managed to fit some two inch foam board down into one of the cavities, but it doesn't make much difference in the ice daming. I need to get the insulation down more onto the plaster lath, and I also need to maintain a better cold air passage under the roof boards. Today I cut through the plaster knee wall in a closet to see if I could get at the bottom of the cavities from there but I found an outer board wall to the outside of the insulation so there is no access to the bottom of the slanted cavities from there. Has anyone ever encountered and solved a problem like this?
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Today's Featured Article - Timing Your Magneto Ignition Tractor - by Chris Pratt. If you have done major engine work or restored your tractor, chances are you removed the magneto and spark plug wires and eventually reached the point where you had to put it all back together and make it run. On our first cosmetic restoration, not having a manual, we carefully marked the wires, taped the magneto in the position it came off, and were careful not to turn the engine over while we had these components off. We thought we could get by with this since the engine ran perfectly and would not need any internal work. After the cleanup and painting was done, we began reassembly and finally came to t
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