Changing the tires is not that bad, but would not want to do it frequently. I used boards and a bottle jack as my floor jack would not go high enough. Very tippy - dangerous.
Try the chains, will work ok. Gives you time to see if you want to go to AGs. I made my one chain by taking some old car chains and putting 2 together into one. When my used ag tire split I had to put the turf back on so I was running one chain and a turf on one side and a ag on the other. Worked ok. You can buy used chains sometimes at garage sales. New ones are not cheap but what is at this point. I still have the chain that I will give you for the postage. It fits a 12.4x28 turf tire and can be extended to fit a 13.6x28. I wont need it anymore. Can send it in a flat rate USPS box for around $12 bucks I think. Let me know if you want it and you can send me a check when you get it.
On the back blade - skip it unless you want to have one for snow. You can find back blades for $150 to $300 all day long. $500 is way too much. You need a 6 footer. The one in the pic is way too small. BTW, old rusty blades work just as good as shiny ones. Just make sure they are not all beat up and welds broken. Paint it in the summer. Prob fine one for $125 or so on craigslist. I did.
I bought a 6.5ft woods box blade for mine for $600. Nice size and heavy! You want it to be almost as wide as the tractor, less bites each time you back up. You want heavy so that the manure and hay does not roll under the blade. Make sure you have one with good rippers. Your 3-point can handle 1500lbs easy. Much stronger than a 8n. And the back blade makes good ballast for loader work.
Good thing is that you can wait for this as well until the right one comes along or more money comes along. The loader will work ok in the mean time.
Find a diesel guy if you are not one. Have him check the engine for excessive blow-by and if any signs of cavitation are occurring. These 3 cyl engines are just about bulletproof as is the transmission, if they nave not been abused. From the pics, the tractor looks well kept and is in it's original paint. That is good. I will never buy a fresh painted tractor. Way too much oppty to hide stuff.
You may well find the trans will have milky oil in it. Mine did. It came from having it outside with bad boots on the shifters. Fixed that. I would not be concerned about a bit of milky color in the trans or hydraulics. Easy to change. They are separate, by the way. Just drive it and listen for any abnormal gear train noises.
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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