Its not a bad choice for the money, and there others of other manufacture that are similar, but lets stick with what you have posted for now.
Existing loader, take a close look at the front end, note the front wheels to be straight when on flat ground, (spindles compromised from heavy lifting, they can crack) The center axle section has a pivot pin, excess play there from loader useage, these are not industrial front ends but still seem to hold up well considering. You can check by raising the front end with the loader and moving the front axle, checking for excess play.
Diesel engines in these and I believe a whole range of these models are susceptible to cavitation if the coolant is not maintained properly, not sure how you determine if there is any issue unless its worn through the water jacket into the combustion chamber, that would require boring and sleeving, which may cost you like an engine overhaul. (just be aware of that with these, check the fluids for contamination)
Under the hood is a foil tag, it has the serial and component numbers of the tractor, that will confirm what trans it has and some other things, likely to have the 8 speed, but there are others, which are quite reliable.
Changing the tires while can be a little work, if not loaded and on their own rims, not the end of the world, I can still handle one of those size tires if loaded with ballast, but one must keep it straight/plumb when handling, or it will go over and you don't want to fight that, let it go over.
You'll likely be able to do most tasks, the finish mowing you would have to figure out, not the best in real tight areas, fine for most if not all open areas. You won't really know how good a fit this tractor will be until you use it at your place, depending on condition thats a fair price for one that is mechanically sound, yes the hour meter/tach cable may not be true, but look at the pedals and other things, sometimes they are, but not as a rule, given the age and useage over the years.
Check the loader pins and bushings for excess play, poorly done repairs, those arenot deal breakers if its in decent shape or has no issues. I've run a much older and much more compromised loader on an earlier series ford tractor doing much of the same work for over 13 years now, still very useful even with all the weld repairs and heavy wear, this one is likely to be in much better shape.
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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