"If it is the condenser opening up when warm would it stop the engine with no spark to either?"
It can happen that AFTER a warm up if its the ignition going dead stopping running IT CAN BE A COIL OR CONDENSOR PROBLEM
However, to straight steady DC a Condensor is already an OPEN CIRCUIT once charged up, and Id think more it may be SHORTING once warm which will indeed kill the spark. The ignition can still spark with an open condenser or no condenser at all, but the spark is weaker plus the points will burn up quickly. However, since a condenser is so cheap, ID TRY A NEW ONE FIRST
"If I add another condenser, assumed good, parallel to the first will that possibly rule out the condenser being bad or not?"
I WOULD REMOVE THE SUSPECTED BAD ONE AND TRY ANOTHER I would NOT try and add one in parallel cuz a short in parallel is still a short
Immediately when it stops you need to pull a plug wire and see if its still firing or not. A coil can fail once warmed up but yes they are expensive.
When it stops is it still getting a good gas flow to the carb??? I have seen gas tanks that aren't vented which can cause an engine to die after a time due to no gas. Or a clogged fuel filter???
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Today's Featured Article - Ford Part Number Trivia - by Forum Participants. "Replaced by" means the part was superseded. All of my part books date back to 1964 and New Holland have changed some part numbers. They usually put the old Ford part number on the package. I was suppressed when I looked up the part number of the auxiliary drive shaft because for some reason the part number went through a radical change and it lost its "Basic Part Number". Ford part numbers follow the following rules. Most part numbers are in three parts. The middle part is called the
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