If it's a gas engine, doing an inframe, I would go back with the old bolts and nuts. No locktite, just clean everything up, oil the threads, torque to specs.
When torquing, you will feel the bolt come into torque. If it continues to stretch, not come up to torque, or binds up before it pulls tight, there is a problem.
I've put many, many engines back with old bolts, never had a failure I could blame on a bad bolt. For a more serious, complete rebuild, or performance build, then the rods get reconditioned with new bolts. You don't take the bolts out once a rod has been reconditioned, it will change the shape (I tried it). So wouldn't the same apply to an old rod?
If there were a rod bearing failure, then the rod will need to be reconditioned. But then the crank will need to be corrected, so that rules out an inframe.
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Today's Featured Article - Timing Your Magneto Ignition Tractor - by Chris Pratt. If you have done major engine work or restored your tractor, chances are you removed the magneto and spark plug wires and eventually reached the point where you had to put it all back together and make it run. On our first cosmetic restoration, not having a manual, we carefully marked the wires, taped the magneto in the position it came off, and were careful not to turn the engine over while we had these components off. We thought we could get by with this since the engine ran perfectly and would not need any internal work. After the cleanup and painting was done, we began reassembly and finally came to t
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