If it's a gas engine, doing an inframe, I would go back with the old bolts and nuts. No locktite, just clean everything up, oil the threads, torque to specs.
When torquing, you will feel the bolt come into torque. If it continues to stretch, not come up to torque, or binds up before it pulls tight, there is a problem.
I've put many, many engines back with old bolts, never had a failure I could blame on a bad bolt. For a more serious, complete rebuild, or performance build, then the rods get reconditioned with new bolts. You don't take the bolts out once a rod has been reconditioned, it will change the shape (I tried it). So wouldn't the same apply to an old rod?
If there were a rod bearing failure, then the rod will need to be reconditioned. But then the crank will need to be corrected, so that rules out an inframe.
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Today's Featured Article - Field Modifications (Sins of the Farmer) - by Staff. Picture a new Chevrolet driving down the street without it's grill, right fender and trunk lid. Imagine a crude hole made in the hood to accommodate a new taller air cleaner, the fender wells cut away to make way for larger tires, and half of a sliding glass door used to replace the windshield. Top that off with an old set of '36 Ford headlight shells bolted to the hood. Pretty unlikely for a car... but for a tractor, this is pretty normal. It seems that more often than not they a
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