OK, found my manual. When you turn the key on, you should bet a 12-volt reading from pin 22 on the computer connector. This is a tan wire with a light green stripe. You should get this voltage for about 2 seconds, then it should turn off. You should also have 12 volts with the key on at pin 37 and pin 57 of the computer. These are RED wires. You should also have 12 volts at pin 1 of the computer. This is a black wire with an orange stripe. When I say 12 volts, I really meant to say battery voltage - whatever that may be depending on your battery's state of charge. Especially check your grounds. Pins 20, 40, and 60 should ALL be grounded to both the engine and the chassis (body). The wires will be a black, and two black with a light green stripe.
IF you do not have the voltages above, it leaves only the computer to be the problem. Ford computers have been EXCEPTIONALLY reliable. They can fail, but it is rare. In my experience, I have replaced only two of them for failures. One was on a Mercury Sable that caused a transmission problem and the other was on a Windstar that would not control the idle.
Also, there is an outfit in Florida that repairs automotive computers. Last I knew, he was quite reasonable on his price. I had to get one for another car, and it cost me under $200 with shipping. If it turns out that you need a computer, I can look up his information for you. BUT, do the diagnosis FIRST to determine that you really need a computer.
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Today's Featured Article - Seeing an Old Friend - by Joe Evans. Dad had a concrete contracting business starting in 1960. One of his first pieces of equipment was a Ferguson TO-35 with a Davis loader. Dad replaced the TO-35 with a MF 202 Workbull, essentially an industrialized Ferguson 35 I am told. Dad bought the 202 new in 1962, and I recall quite clearly going to the dealer with him to sign for it.
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