Kind of glad I posted this here and got some comments about that. Seemingly per the Cat 2 dimensions shown on drawings, (works on paper lol... we all know how that goes) the lower lift pins are always shown in the same plane vertically. So I designed this per that, but if the top link pin is forward towards the tractor, than the bottom pins, I don't see any issues with that, well maybe the top link adjustment range if that is a plausible concern, maybe its just fine that way too.
The key to this implement without a hydraulic top link is to have that sweet spot mechanical/threaded top link setting so that when fully raised its got adequate tilt to retain a log or the cargo, and when its lowered to the ground, its at least level or you can slip under whatever it is you will carry without any adjustment to the top link needed. I'd really like to clamp this together and check that before tacking or welding but I may have to tack it or weld tabs on the uprights to clamp to. My previous set, built much lighter, Cat 1 geometry, same length forks or close, with the top link pin aligned with the lower lift pins, did in fact have an ideal one time setting on the top link to accomplish the above and its why I'm sort of stuck on it LOL ! Make sense or am I over thinking LOL ?
But, needing this done yesterday...... and not over think... LOL. I should re-work the dimensions on paper, top link connection on the face, not the top, make sure it works with the steel I have already, or perhaps just switch the top piece to a 4"x4" 1/4" tube so that the top link flange connection (3/8" angle) I have punched will match as they are 4" Or, I'll replace those too, as those were designed to fit on top, precisely on center at 24" from the lower pins, the hole is off set back to match the plane of the lower pins which is dictated by the brackets that connect the posts or uprights. So its not centered in the flange, but still seems to be enough edge distance, that top link pin won't gall, deform or oval out etc. So they may not be centered, look off, but would work just fine.
Now, as is in the photo, and I don't have to necessarily have a quick hitch, (this alone will carry/move any implement I have) the top link should clear the horizontal piece as its exactly per Cat 2 drawing/dimensions. If not, I guess I'd best find out before welding if it is to remain as is.
Well hey, thanks ACG and all others for taking a look and commenting, sure glad I did not rush this, and certainly wish I could have added the hydraulic top link now, just that money went for a nice rear blade to get me through the snow and allows me to have both, they are equally important tools I need.
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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