The foil bubble wrap has two shortcomings: It won't support any weight and it has almost zero insulating value. Forget about using that stuff.
You need to use 40 psi minimum foam planks over a well-compacted base if you're going to put anything heavy on your floor. The stuff from the big box stores is weaker than that, so you'll have to look around for the good stuff.
I insulated the floor of my shop and put in tubing, but I haven't finished the ceiling yet. So I haven't hooked up the radiant heat and can't report on how well it heats, but I have NO CRACKS in my floor ten years after it was poured. Here's how I did mine:
The insides of the skirt boards are insulated with 2" foam board. I beveled the upper edge of the foam plank so the concrete runs all the way to the skirt board, but that's not really necessary since the inner walls would have covered the exposed board everywhere but the doorway.
The first eight feet of floor adjacent to the walls has two inch insulation for a five inch concrete depth. The rest of the floor, including the doorway of the overhead door, has one inch insulation for a six inch thick floor.
The floor has wire mesh in it, although I might use rebar if I was to do it again. Wherever I planned to put a saw cut, I cut every other strand in the mesh to weaken it. The tubing is inside a short conduit wherever it passes through a saw cut to protect it from damage when the concrete cracks.
To prevent heat loss through the overhead doorway, I put in a pressure-treated 2x6 right where the door will close, and glued a beveled plank of insulation to the inside of the 2x6.
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Today's Featured Article - History of the Nuffield Tractor - by Anthony West. The Nuffield tractor story started in early 1945. The British government still reeling from the effects of the war on the economy, approached the Nuffield organization to see if they would design and build an "ALL NEW" British built wheeled tractor, suitable for both British and world farming.
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