You have to do a really, really good job with your rough grade under ridgid foam. If you don't the foam will bridge and leave pockets, which will lead to cracks in your floor. There are products out there that are like concrete blankets that will follow any uneveness in your rough grade to support your floor better. I have seen instances where styrofoam was used, and very heavy point loads were in floors, (town hyw. plow trucks loaded with sand and heavy plows, that colapsed the styrofoam under the concrete. You also need to pay perticular attention to floor drains, and how you route your radiant tubeing AROUND them. You don't need an extreamly high R value under the floor, but it does need to have a very good vapor barrier. Moisture will wick away the heat without good vapor protection. I am a retired contractor and built a good number of Ag and comercial steel buildings with radiant heat in them. Also make sure you isolate the aprons with a vertical frost barier protruding to finish level, between floor and aprons, and string the tubing closer together in front of overhead doors. A good R 10+ vertical frost barier at least 2' deep, around the perimiter of the building is also necessary. We used 2" ridgid styrofoam there. The tubeing in the pics is 7/8" supplied by Radiant Tech Inc., Lyndonville VT., who designed and provided materials and controls for our heating systems. Loren, the Acg.
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Today's Featured Article - Women and Tractors - Tractor Engine Repair - by Teri Burkholder. One of the great things about working on a tractor engine with your other half is that you know what he is thinking of at all times and can anticipate his every move and his next thought of what he will do. With Ben, anyway, I can tell! He'll be busy working and I�m handing him tools and he says, "give me that..." and I�ve already got it in his hand or "hand me that....."and I�ve got the portable light right where he needed it placed to see. "Run in the house and get me a...."as I open th
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